The Rock Art of Valcamonica: Itineraries for Visiting Parks and Archaeological Areas

Written by Tiziana Cittadini and Valeria Damioli

 

Valcamonica is world famous for its extraordinary complex of rock engravings, mostly dating back to prehistoric times, which have been recognized as a “World Heritage Site” by UNESCO since 1979. Although all the rock art sites known today in Valcamonica should be considered “World Heritage”, eight parks have been established in this territory, and several archaeological areas encompassing the most significant sites have been set up to promote their tourist enjoyment.

Depending on your degree of interest and the available time, an ideal itinerary to discover the rock engravings should include a visit to:

  • Capo di Ponte – National Prehistory and Protohistory Centre of Valcamonica (Naquane National Park, Massi di Cemmo National Park and Museum of Prehistory – “MUPRE”) and Seradina-Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park (planned visit time: 2 days);
  • Nature Reserve of rock engravings of Ceto, Cimbergo and Paspardo – Museum of the Reserve, Foppe di Nadro archaeological area, archaeological areas of Campanine di Cimbergo and Paspardo (planned visit time: 1-2 days for the entire circuit; allow half a day for visiting each of the individual areas);
  • Recently, it has been opened and musealized a trail connecting Naquane National Park and the Foppe di Nadro archaeological area, the two main visitation areas and the two highest concentrations of rock art in the middle Valley. Having only one day to devote to rock art, we suggest choosing this route, completing it with a visit to MUPRE;
  • Darfo Boario Terme – Parco di Interesse Sovracomunale del Lago Moro, Luine, Crape, Simoni and Monticolo (estimated visiting time: half a day for the archaeological area of Luine, Crape, Simoni; one hour for Monticolo);
  • Altopiano del Sole Plateau – Asinino-Anvòia Archaeological Park (Ossimo Superiore); Valzel de Undine archaeological area (Borno); Annunciata and Vigne archaeological trail (Piancogno) (estimated visiting time: half a day for the entire trail);
  • Sellero, Berzo Demo and Sonico – Sellero Mining Archaeological Park; Berzo Demo-Loa Multi-Tematic Route; Sonico “Coren de le Fate” Multi-Tematic Route (planned visit time: 1 day).

 

Having been established at different times, parks and archaeological areas have different administrative and management solutions (archaeological trail, municipal park, regional park, national park), establish their own regulations and, above all, their own policy of opening hours and admission administration, so it is important to check these matters with the managing body of each of them. Since 2021, it is possible to purchase (online only) the Pass Incisioni, a single ticket (valid for one year) that allows one entrance to each of the affiliated sites. For those who wish to visit only one park, it is possible to purchase access at each individual ticket office.

The parks and archaeological areas cover a fairly limited area, stretching from Darfo Boario Terme in the south to Sonico in the north. The greatest concentration of engraved sites, and consequently of areas set up for sightseeing, is in the mid-valley, around Capo di Ponte.

Public transportation is infrequent and quite inconvenient; apart from Capo di Ponte, bus and train stations are often decentralized from the villages. The best means of transportation to visit all the sites would be by car or motorcycle. Also, cabs need to be booked in advance at local agencies, since they are not a widespread service.

The areas with rock art are located in mid-mountain areas, surrounded by forests. In order to reach the sites, it is always necessary to plan walking treks. Moreover, only some parks are infrastructured for people with mobility impairments; we encourage you to check before going to the site.

If you prefer slow mobility, Valcamonica is crossed by two walking routes: “Charlemagne’s Path” and “Via Valeriana,” touching many sites with rock art, as well as churches, monuments and other areas of artistic and environmental relevance.

Bicycles could also be a viable means of transportation, as the valley is crossed by a bicycle path along its entire length. Please keep in mind, however, that we are talking about a mid-mountain area: it is therefore necessary to take into account the presence of significant elevation differences.

The best times to plan a visit are spring (April to mid-June) or fall (mid-September to October). In summer, the weather is quite hot and the light of the sun, at its peak, makes it quite difficult to read the engravings. In winter, temperatures can be very cold, and some trails may be dangerous due to the presence of ice and snow; also, some accommodation facilities may be closed.

Capo di Ponte

National Prehistory and Protohistory Center of Valcamonica (Naquane National Park, Massi di Cemmo National Park and Museum of Prehistory – “MUPRE”) and Seradina-Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park

Capo di Ponte is the heart of the rock art area in Valcamonica: a visit to this area can only start from here, where the Centro Camuno di Studi Preistorici (Valcamonica’s Center for Prehistorical Studies, or CCSP) is based, and where the Regional Directorate of Museums of Lombardy has established the “Polo Nazionale della Preistoria e Protostoria della Valcamonica” (National Prehistory and Protohistory Center of Valcamonica), including the National Rock Art Park in Naquane, the Massi di Cemmo National Archaeological Park and the MUPRE (National Prehistory Museum in Valcamonica). Since 2009, several areas located on the right bank of the Oglio river, belonging to the Seradina-Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park, have also been infrastructured and opened for tourists.

 

National Rock Art Park in Naquane

Information

Tel.: 0364 42140; email: drm-lom.incisionirupestri@beniculturali.it; web site: www.parcoincisioni.capodiponte.beniculturali.it

Summer hours (April 1 to October 31):

  • Tuesday through Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. (last admission at 6:30 p.m.).
  • Sundays and holidays: 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. (last admission at 1:30 p.m.).

Closed on Mondays.

Winter hours might be subject to changes, please check in advance

Admission: € 6.00

Access: By car, past the Capo di Ponte train station, keep right at the railroad crossing and take the road leading to the Church of Le Sante (signs on site). There are several public parking spaces in Limit Street and near the church. The entrance to the park can be reached on foot, with an easy 10-minute walk.
Alternatively, starting from the forecourt of the Hotel Graffitipark (where ample public parking is available), follow the pedestrian signs for the path called “nel bosco degli alberi del pane” (lit., “in the forest of the bread trees”). Again, the park can be reached by an easy 10-minute walk.
Another possible route is to get there on foot in about 20 minutes from the Capo di Ponte train station (directions on site).

Some rocks in the park are also accessible to people with mobility disabilities.

Visiting time: half a day

 

Naquane is the area with the best-known rock art in Valcamonica and the first to be put under protection, in 1955, thanks to studies conducted by Emmanuel Süss and the attention of the then Superintendent of Lombardy Mario Mirabella Roberti. The park today houses 104 engraved rocks, which are fundamental to the reconstruction of the cultural cycle of Valcamonica. Their engravings cover a remarkable time span, from the most archaic phases to modern graffiti. Their themes have great typological variety, but also the density of the engravings is exceptional, to the point that it can be stated that the macro-area comprising Naquane and Foppe di Nadro (part of the Nature Reserve of Ceto, Cimbergo and Paspardo), must have been particularly important to the prehistoric communities of the area.

The park is organized into five visitor routes: the orange-colored one, starting at the entrance, is the basic route, from which the others branch off. It is quite difficult to rank the most significant rocks within the park; but we would point out rocks 1, 50 and 35 as “must-see”, due to their historical importance and artistic beauty.

 

100_0819
naquane r1
naquane r 50_guerriero
naquane r 50_cavaliere acrobata
naquane r 35_villaggio
naquane r 35_sciamano che corre
naquane r 1_telaio
naquane r 1_labirinto
naquane r 1_cervo
naquane r 1
dsc_0015
previous arrow
next arrow

 

Naquane r.1

Also known as the “Great Rock of Naquane”, it is among the largest and most densely engraved surfaces in Europe: a visit to this rock alone would justify a trip to Valcamonica. It is a large, glacier-smoothed, mounded surface that forms a single engraved complex with adjacent rocks 2-3-4. To facilitate its visit, it is crossed by a large wooden walkway, which laps the most interesting panels.
The first thing to strike the visitor is the freshness of the engravings and their near-perfect legibility, thanks in part to its favorable exposure to the sun. Here, it is possible to admire engravings dating from the Neolithic to the Iron Age: simple schematic, ityphallic figures and “large-handed” prayers, loom figures, many hunting scenes, deer with well-defined antlers, warriors, horsemen with conspicuous rayed or feathered headdresses, a labyrinth, shovels, huts, and many other symbols.

Naquane r. 50

R. 50 is also considerable in size, but its exposure to sunlight is not as good as r. 1’s, making its engravings more difficult to read than the other rocks in the park. Also served by a convenient walkway, it offers visitors the opportunity to approach a beautiful composition of anthropomorphs, depicted in the praying position (this kind of figure is also called “orant”, or prayer).
The central part of the rock is occupied by engravings of large warriors carrying swords, shields and crested helmets, referring to the Etruscan phase of influence during the Middle Iron Age. In the repertoire, mostly related to a warlike and “male” sphere, the depictions of horsemen – engaged in both fighting and hunting – stand out. Among them, a horseman in a sort of “kilt” appears to be balancing on the back of his horse, engaged in a test of skill – perhaps an initiation, or some sort of ceremony?

Naquane r. 35

Located at the southern end of the park, this rock also offers exceptional legibility. On its surface stands out a long train of Iron Age huts, partially overlapping with deer hunting scenes. Among the most interesting figures are the so-called “running shaman,” skilfully and vividly drawn, and the “blacksmith’s” scene, which seems to show a craftsman at work (Iron Age).

 

Massi di Cemmo National Archaeological Park

Information:

Opening hours are subject to change, please remember to check in advance by contacting Naquane Park (tel: 0364 42140; email: drm-lom.incisionirupestri@beniculturali.it; sito web: www.parcoincisioni.capodiponte.beniculturali.it)

Free admission. The site is also accessible to people with mobility disabilities.

Access: public parking space in Via Pieve di San Siro, in the hamlet of Cemmo di Capo di Ponte.

Visiting time: about one hour

 

The two Boulders of Cemmo (“Massi di Cemmo” in Italian), located in the small valley of Pian delle Greppe, are closely linked to the discovery of rock art in Valcamonica: reported by G. Laeng as early as 1909, they appeared in a brief note in the Italian Touring Club Guide in 1914, to later become the subject of numerous studies throughout the 20th century and also in the early 2000s.

Archaeological excavations have shown that the area has been sacralized since the Copper Age, when the two main boulders (the “Massi” mentioned in the name of the park) were engraved. Towards the end of the same period, also other stelae and engraved boulders were added, such as the stelae called “Cemmo 3” and “Cemmo 4”. Most of the recent findings are now on display at MUPRE (Museum of Prehistory in Capo di Ponte, Valcamonica).

Later, during the Bronze Age, a semicircular walled enclosure was built, monumentalizing the sacred space. In the Middle and Late Iron Age (V/IV-II/I cent. BCE), the megalithic sanctuary was also renovated with the reuse (and re-engraving) of some Copper Age statue-stelae. The sanctuary remained in use even in the Roman period: the walled enclosure was arranged with a cobblestone floor, while some fragments of Copper Age stelae were used as waste materials and other stelae were re-engraved.

The advent of Christianity brought the end of the ceremonial site and of the pagan worship practiced here: the stelae were intentionally torn down and partly thrown into large open pits along the walled enclosure or leaned against the outer body of the wall and carefully sealed with river pebbles. This last deconsecration intervention, marking the final abandonment of the sanctuary, happened between late Roman times and the early Middle Ages and could be related to the struggle waged by the Church against the idolatry of stones. This condemnation may have ended with the Christianization of the area, which was expressed in a determined and radical way on the site itself: the general reorganization of the entire Cemmo basin, the construction of a road and terracing, and the foundation, near the ancient pagan place of worship, of the parish church dedicated to St. Syrus (“Pieve di San Siro” in Italian) – the saint who, according to the legend, brought Christianity to this Valley.

 

cemmo 1
cemmo 1_dettaglio
cemmo 2_carro e aratro
cemmo 2_pugnali
frammento murato
pian delle greppe
previous arrow
next arrow

 

MUPRE – National Museum of Prehistory in Valcamonica

Information:

Web site: www.mupre.capodiponte.beniculturali.it

Opening hours:

  • Tuesday through Friday: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (last admission: 3:30 p.m.)
  • Saturday and Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (last admission: 12:30 p.m.) and 2-6 p.m. (last admission: 5:30 p.m.)

Closed on Mondays.

Opening hours are subject to change; please remember to check in advance at www.mupre.capodiponte.beniculturali.it.

Free admission. The museum is accessible to people with mobility impairments.

Access: public parking on San Martino Street, in the historic center of Capo di Ponte.

Visiting time: two and a half hours

 

Located in the historic building of Villa Agostani (built in the 1500s), in the center of Capo di Ponte, the museum offers an interesting insight into the material culture of prehistoric Valcamonica.

The ground floor is devoted to the Copper Age megalithic sanctuaries: this display houses over 50 stelae and engraved boulder-menhirs from the megalithic sanctuaries of Cemmo, Bagnolo, Ossimo-Anvòia, Ossimo-Pat, and other areas. These are particularly impressive finds and, in some cases, of imposing dimensions (such as the majestic Cemmo 9 and Pat 4 stelae), making Valcamonica an important participant in the extensive phenomenon of Alpine and European megalithism.

The upper floor houses numerous artifacts of material culture: from Mesolithic shelters to Neolithic settlements to the Metal Ages, the artifacts “tell the story” of the ancient ways of living and inhabiting the Alps, making optimal use of their environmental resources.

The archaeological findings related to the funerary world, although not numerous, offer significant data for reconstructing the complex conception of death in the Copper Age, with rock shelters (“Riparo 2” of Foppe di Nadro) and shrines with stelae, where mounds and votive circles with deposition of offerings (Ossimo-Pat) and remains of human bones (Ossimo-Anvòia, Cemmo) hint at aspects of ancestor worship.

 

Seradina-Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park

Information:

Capo di Ponte Cultural Tourist Agency – Tel: 334/6575628; Website: www.parcoseradinabedolina.it

Opening hours: Daily, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Thursdays. The ticket office is located at the entrance to the Seradina area.

Admission: € 4.00

Access:

  • to Seradina: From Capo di Ponte, follow the road signs to Cemmo; park at the free, public parking space by the cemetery (via Pieve di San Siro). The park entrance is a few minutes’ walk away (directions on site).
  • to Bedolina: follow the road signs to Pescarzo and park in the small, marked parking lot. The rocks can be reached in a few minutes on foot (signs on site).

Visiting time: 3-4 hours

 

The Municipal Archaeological Park of Seradina-Bedolina (Capo di Ponte), opened to the public in 2005, includes the rich areas with rock engravings of Seradina and Bedolina, in which over 160 engraved surfaces have been identified to date, now organized in various visiting routes identified with different colors. The Park occupies a wide area between the hamlets of Cemmo and Pescarzo, 400-600 m above sea level. The area at the lowest elevation, Seradina, with the respective sub-areas of Seradina I, II and III, is distinguished by the widespread presence of Bronze Age and early Iron Age (late II – early I millennium BCE) engravings. The rocks, small in size, bear many scenes of duels/ritual fights, while in one specific sector (Seradina I, or “Corno di Seradina”) there are many plowing scenes. The engraved portions are generally small, except for the large rock 12 in Seradina I.

In contrast, numerous rocks with “topographic compositions” are located in the Bedolina plateau, including the famous “Map Rock”.

bedolina r 1_mappa1
bedolina r 1_mappa2
bedolina r 1_mappa3
Seradina II r 12_aratura
Seradina II r 12_caccia
Seradina II r 12_cavalieri
Seradina II r 12_scena mitologica
seradina
previous arrow
next arrow

 

Seradina I r.12

An undisputed leading rock in the area, it bears a series of engravings of ideological or mythological character. A large deer hunting scene, with horsemen and dogs, occupies its central part. Slightly off to the side, six plowing scenes feature equids harnessed and led by a figure with a hoe, followed by mating scenes.

These subjects are joined by isolated depictions evoking probable mythological epics, as is the case with a famous scene in which one of the figures, armed with a square-bladed axe, grasps a large snake with one hand.

Bedolina r. 1

Overlooking the valley in a panoramic position, this rock exemplifies even to the least attentive visitor the close connection between rock art and the land. The rock is almost completely covered with complex figures, with rectangular elements – sometimes fielded or filled with neat rows of cup marks and often joined by lines, to form extensive geometries. The whole has always been described as a representation of the territory, to which sporadic figures of armed men (central part), the large Camunian rose (upper left side), and representations of huts (lower register) were added in later times.

 

Ceto-Cimbergo-Paspardo

Darfo Boario Terme

Altopiano del Sole

Sellero and Valle di Saviore


Cerca nel sito